Thursday, February 4, 2010

Tavigate - Storm in a fashion teacup!


Image courtesy of WWD

Fashion blogger Tavi Gevinson is at the centre of a major fire-storm kicked off this week by an article in The Independent by Susie Mesure entitled " Fluff flies as fashion writers pick a cat fight with bloggers". The story suggests that a number of reputable fashion journos and key fashion industry players are not happy. The reported preferential and in some cases reverential treatment fashion bloggers get from luxury fashion houses like Chanel and Christian Dior is starting to rankle. A tad one-sided the article does raise a number of issues about the changing nature of the fashion writer, whether that is a journalist who writes for a living or fashion blogger who writes as a labour of love.

Putting aside sharp comments such as "blogs have turned into little more than the mouthpieces for fashion brands' and "bloggers like Tavi at at the couture shows and being showered with all kinds of gifts' begs the question what has prompted the backlash?

Most serious fashion bloggers are considered to be those with a genuine love of fashion and who wish to share this passion with like minded followers. As well as being dedicated followers of fashion they champion new and emerging designers who tend to get overlooked by the mainstream fashion media. Their motivation is not to endorse a fashion brand in order to get invited to profile runway shows (although increasingly they do) but is to share with readers their individual and very personal take on fashion.

It is not surprising though that fashion writers might be feeling marginalised as they vie for readership with both traditional print media and online, considering themselves having spent years developing their craft.

It has also been suggested that Fashion Editors face increasing commercial pressure to get more advertising pages in their magazines. This can result in some editors giving highly prized fashion editorial space to those brands taking advertising pages. There may be some truth to this but magazine editors are only as good as the circulations figures and advertising sales they generate and the balance between editorial freedom and commerce is a precarious one. Most fashion bloggers don't depend on magazine circulation figures for their income nor are they answerable to an Editor for their livelihood.

Furthermore, bloggers are increasingly running commercial operations on their blog sites to capitalise on their popularity and position. By setting up on-line stores, utilsing pay per click adverts, publishing deals, this by some could be cited as selling out! Not to say there is anything wrong with bloggers doing this but it does move the goalposts somewhat.

Add to this the fashion industry like most others has a hierarchy and a pecking order. One imagines some embattled fashion journos who consider they have earned their stripes, not looking kindly on being usurped by a teenage girl from the suburbs of Chicago. Just a case of sour grapes perhaps but begs the questions is fashion blogging the media platform of the future and just how much store do you put by the musings of a 13 year old child, even is she does live for fashion?

Monday, January 25, 2010

Menswear Designer- Damir Doma


Designer Damir Doma is certainly causing ripples in the world of Menswear. This Croatian born designer who grew up in Germany and subsequently worked for Raf Simons seems to making a name for himself, below the radar and is set to burst centre stage any time now. Reports suggest that crowds of people gathered outside his recent show trying without success to gain access.

His design aesthetic is all about complex drapes, folded shapes and sheer soft fabrics combined with oversized blocks and layering. Scarlet red layering and Off-white Linen asymmetric hemmed jackets were a marvel in his S/S 10 collection. Whilst it looks most impressive on the catwalk, one would have to argue that not many men would be able to pull this look off on the high street. Dedicated followers of fashion would argue that his design sensibility is breathtaking and innovative which is true but to me is also reminiscent of the early work of a then little known Alber Elbaz when he designed the Menswear collection for YSL in 1998.

The fact is that Damir Doma’s groundbreaking style and meticulous attention to detail cannot be overlooked, but one believes that if his aesthetic was just reined in a little, akin to what Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin and Raf Simons (his old mentor) at Jil Sander are doing, then the possibilities are boundless for this avant-garde designer.

www.damirdoma.com

Friday, January 22, 2010

Woolrich Inc- Menswear A/W 10/11



Since 1830 Woolrich Inc. has called itself ‘The Original Outdoor Clothing Company” which embraces the outdoor lifestyle. Established in the mindset of the older customer, Woolrich needed to attract 20-30 year olds and has in recent years undertaken a comprehensive range of products, that include, Footwear, Accessories, Outerwear, Hosiery and Homewares. To move the brand into a more contemporary fashion arena they licensed Italian company W.P Lavori to produce a collection of men’s and women’s sportswear which is presented during fashion week.

The latest Menswear collection for A/W 10/11 has reworked the red check fabric synonymous with the Woolrich image into a dark blue colourway and translated it across its modern design aesthetic.

www.woolrich.it

Menswear Uniqlo +J Collection



The Future is Here; or so heralds the catalogue for the latest Spring/Summer 2010 +J collection in the collaboration by fashion brand Uniqlo and designer Jil Sander. The second +J collection has just landed in London stores and does not disappoint. Following the recognisable handwriting of Sander - clean lines, uncluttered details and crisp fabric finishes, it locks down the Uniqlo formula for offering well styled basics with a design edge. The collections are manufactured to a high Japanese standard of quality (but in China) thus keeping the prices very competitive. Both collections are priced between £29.99 and £49.99 with the outerwear and suits priced between £59.99 and £99.99. With basics and knitwear priced from £12.99.

‘Tech Satin’- a cotton and synthetic mix fabric features strongly in womenswear in navy, lilac and primrose yellow whilst crisp glazed cottons are used for menswear in neutral colours like sand and putty.

Parka (available February) and Mod’s Coat (available March) are the more trend led menswear pieces that should prove popular with a younger customer whilst slim fit glazed cotton Jacket (available March) and Shirt-dress (available May) for womenswear should hit the mark for women.

http://www.uniqlo.co.uk/

Monday, January 18, 2010

Menswear A/W 10/11 Gianfranco Ferre




Gianfranco Ferre’s creative directors Robert Raimondi and Tommaso Aquilano presented a very clean, crisply tailored collection for Autumn Winter 10/11 in Milan. With a polished take on larger scale Prince of Wales checks and leather/wool combinations, they managed to present an eminently wearable and dare I say commercial collection sticking closely to a monochrome colour palette. Already there has been some criticism by Fashion Press levelled at the designers for playing it too safe. But I feel this is unfounded as historically the Gianfranco Ferre label has always been slightly below the radar for menswear and the womenswear collection was steeped in the ‘architectural’ influenced DNA of its eponymous founder. Whilst the fashion editors might not be jumping up and down with excitement about this collection, I would be surprised if menswear Buyers were not keeping a close eye on Raimondi’s and Aquilano’s offering for menswear next season.

Images courtesy of GQ.com

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Menswear A/W 10/11 Jil Sander



Once again Creative Director Raf Simons produces for the Jil Sander label those little gems of fashion that happen so rarely these days, especially in menswear. Simons whose eye for the contemporary and innovative whether it be textiles or cut, still manages to push the envelope of men's tailoring every season. This season is no exception with cut outs and overlapped panels (akin to patchwork) that might get over complicated and contrived if done by another designer, but Raf Simons still reigns supreme and some consider is leading the vanguard of the very best menswear today.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

The Scented Candle- by Simon Carter


Known for his sartorial menswear and cuff-link accessories, Simon Crater has now expanded into homeware with this delightful scented candle. Hand poured in the UK using original essential oils and beautifully packaged it makes the perfect gift or wonderful for your own home. Exclusively sold at the Shepherd Market store in Mayfair.

Simon Carter 34 Shepherd Market, London W1J 7QP - Tel: 020 7907 9170 - www.simoncarter.net